The Leanne Marshall Sushi Roll

I’ve not said much about H50 Bar and Bistro since going there to attend one of my last-ever media previews—a debauched and ridiculous affair that included the revelation that the restaurant’s urinals looked nearly identical to the modern pasta bowls.

Since then, H50 has received somewhat favorable buzz, but I still have a hard time getting myself back through the door—even on Tuesdays, when winning a coin toss can get your bill paid. I’m not sure if this recent press release will help or not:

Downtown Portland’s H5O bistro & bar has teamed up with three local celebrities to create sushi rolls that will benefit their charity of choice, beginning with the Leanne Marshall Sushi Roll with proceeds assisting the Gulf oil spill clean-up

There was really only one way to find out if a Leanne Marshall roll would warm me to H50: I had to head down with fashion editor Marjorie Skinner and eat the damn thing.

Photos and our take on the fashionable fish-less roll after the jump!

So, this is the press release we received:

From June 1 — June 30, H5O bistro will serve a sushi roll created by Leanne Marshall, clothing designer and winner of Project Runway season five… Leanne’s cabbage salad and spicy aioli sushi roll is filled with nori and seasoned rice; topped with fresh carrots, avocado and tomato; finished with togarashi and diakon radish sprouts and served with tomato coulis sauce.

But when we hit the place yesterday, the bartender had no idea what a Leanne Marshall roll was. Oops.

The chef cleared things up for us. It turns out the roll is already on the menu. Essentially it’s a veggie rainbow roll, it just hasn’t been officially named after the ex-Portlander yet. We ordered it anyway.

For all of the shit I’ve given H50 (and its seemingly Z-Gallery inspired design, perfect for glitter-frosted executive types ready to score on a Friday night), chef Nicholas A Yanes can certainly cook. I’ve only heard good things about the food here, and from what I remember about the media preview I was pleased by the food while being irked by the atmosphere.

I’ve got to say that even though a sushi traditionalist would probably spit up his nori at the thought of it, the Leanne-Marshall-roll-to-be is one gorgeous culinary creation.

Though I was dubious to start with, everything works very well here. The inside of the roll has a wonderful texture with the cabbage salad interior (read: gourmet slaw) surrounded by sushi rice with a perfect hint of hushed vinegar. Each section of the roll is topped with a thin slice of either carrot, avocado, or tomato, and I was surprised by the big flavors from these slices, which change the character of each piece in a charming way. The addition of the savory tomato coulis sauce and an avocado puree was a nice touch. If I wanted anything, it would have been just a touch of spicy heat.

If I were looking for a light snack to pair with a martini, this would be my choice.

But that’s just my take. Here’s what Marjorie has to say about Leanne’s roll:

Firstly, don’t be fooled—Patrick loves the Z-Gallery. He spent the entire car ride back to the office enthusing about the witty impulse buys they have at the counter, and how much he wants one of their faux-fur (but, like obvious, intentionally faux-fur, you know?) rugs and how every time he goes into the Z-Gallery in BridgePort Village he sees, like, three or four things right away that are just so kitschy that he just really really wants them, you know? I mean, come on. Anyhow, I hadn’t been in to H50 since my buddy Ghong worked slinging drinks there back when it was just a mediocre hotel bar with a couple of afternoon-drunks in business casual drifting around. Pre-Z-Gallery stuff. While the décor was a little obtuse, the sushi roll was pretty delicious, and the presentation was beautiful. The roll itself was a light veggie option—I could have done without the skin-thin slices of carrot and tomato, but the more avocado the better. Knowing Leanne, and her designs, the idea of a sushi roll in her honor is not inappropriate. Famous for her fastidious pleating and folding techniques, a Japanese aesthetic comparison is not uncalled-for, though the result is fresh and modern, without evoking a literally historical, cultural tradition. Well, other than the historical, cultural tradition of “couture,” that is. Likewise, the rainbow veggie/Leanne Marshall roll is modern, educated, but un-traditional. Leanne’s own take was that, “Basically, I told him that I normally go for vegetarian/non-fish sushi and then my favorite things: avocado, hot sauce, cilantro (and then listed pretty much all the ingredients to make a burrito. Ha!) As long as it had avocado and something spicy, I left the rest up to the professional chef. If it were me making it, yes, I would probably have tried to make burrito-sushi, and it would likely be a disaster!” So, while I agree with Patrick that the “spicy” could have been ratcheted up, it looks like the credit for the fresh, pretty roll ultimately should go to Yanes. Well played, sir.—Marjorie