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Having spent eight years as a city transplant living in Yamhill County, I can say with certainty that it just keeps getting better. The wineries that draw tourists from all over are here, sure, but so are the farms that make Portland farmers’ markets so great. The local restaurant scene is churning out plates using those same locally farmed, caught, and foraged products, all while keeping prices accessible. You should absolutely come for the wine, but intersperse your travels with a few of these stops, too.
Where to Eat
Bunny Belly Bagels
Wine country is in on the high-end bagel renaissance, too. Chef Henry Kibit left restaurant kitchens (most recently Cypress in McMinnville’s Atticus Hotel and a host of Portland spots before that) to open a one man bagel shop, just offering bagels and schmears. The za’atar bagel with Mama Lil’s pepper cream cheese is a solid first stop before a busy day. 709 NE Third, McMinnville, bunnybellybagels.com
Merenda Italian Deli
Stop into this sunny little deli—the name means snack in Italian—for a panini and to-go tiramisu en route to any wine country destination. Ribbons of mortadella, pickled peppers, and an Italian craft beer? 10/10 lunch. 110 SW 7th St B, Dundee, merendadeli.com
Grounded Table
Formerly known as Humble Spirit, this James Beard–nominated gem in McMinnville sends out a casually refined, farm-driven menu rooted in the restaurant’s own regenerative farm in Carlton. Stars include handmade pastas with seasonal vegetables, a restrained offering of local meats and seafood, and the restaurant’s take on Oreos, made with lard from the farm and served with fresh local milk. For something more casual, head around the corner to The Pub, which offers counter-service barbecue with the same regenerative ethos as next door and, on Monday evenings, epic fried chicken. 411 NE Third, McMinnville, theground.love
Hayward
The most exciting restaurant in the northern Willamette Valley is Hayward, from two-time James Beard nominee Chef Kari Shaughnessy. Her culinary approach combines global influences with local ingredients, from salmon aguachile to grilled vegetables with toum. Expect fermented vegetables, delightfully complex pastas from chef de cuisine Søren Kalbfleisch, and Revel Meat Company meats. Hayward also has perhaps the best cocktail menu in the area, all of which are available by the half-pour, which is handy when you’re looking to try a few without wrecking yourself. 209 N Kutch, Carlton, haywardrestaurant.com
Where to Drink
HiFi Wine Bar
Look, it feels borderline rude of me to mention only a couple of wineries in an area absolutely stacked with them. Try many of their pours in the same place at this approachable wine bar. The wine list is deep and seriously curated by sommeliers who will meet you where you are on your wine journey, while the pool table and the records spinning in the background ensure a good time. 711 NE Third, McMinnville, hifiwinebar.com
Carlton Winemakers Studio
If you have commitment issues or simply love efficiency, this is your spot. The Studio houses more than a dozen micro-producers under one roof, which means you can taste a rotating cast of small-production wines from a wide range of Carlton winemakers without driving anywhere. The revolving selection means no two visits are exactly alike. It’s also one of the most approachable rooms in the area—great wine and people who want to talk about it. 801 N Scott, Carlton, winemakersstudio.com
Where to Get Out
Hike in Miller Woods Conservation Area
Plan a visit to this 130-acre educational forest preserve just three miles west of McMinnville. There’s a short, stroller-friendly one-third mile paved path around a cattail-lined pond, plus a 4.5 mile outer loop trail (and several shorter options, too) that weave through forested area, oak savannah, and wetlands. Lift one of the many wildlife cover boards along the paths, and you might spot a field mouse or a salamander hiding in the boards’ shade. Know before you go that bikes and dogs are not invited. 15580 NW Orchard View, McMinnville, yamhillswcd.org/miller-woods/
Where to Stay
The Vintages Trailer Resort
Don’t call it a trailer park! This quirky collection of restored vintage trailers—Airstreams, teardrops, land yachts—is a solid central hub for adventuring between McMinnville, Carlton, and Dundee, and a great summer spot for families because of the pool, the cozy fire pits, and the bike trails on the property. Pro tip: there’s a blackberry-lined walking path that starts at the Vintages and crosses a footbridge over the Yamhill River, where you’re just steps away from downtown Dayton’s main square with live music on Friday nights all summer long. 16205 SE Kreder, Dayton, the-vintages.com