THE THREE CHEFS behind Kim Jong Smokehouse are en fuego right now. Han Ly Hwang’s original Kim Jong Grillin’ cart is a perennial favorite, and Earl Ninsom is the mastermind behind Langbaan, Hat Yai, and PaaDee. And don’t forget Smokehouse Tavern’s BJ Smith, who took a four-episode turn on this season of Top Chef, expanded his barbecue empire into Vancouver, Washington, and is now putting the smoke in Kim Jong Smokehouse.
Kim Jong Smokehouse—with two locations, one in Pine Street Market and the other on Northwest 21st, in Smith’s original Smokehouse 21 location—specializes in bibimbap with smoked meats and steamed buns with pulled pork. It’s a fast-casual concept that, for Pine Street, encourages diners to bring a bowl back to the office, and entices those strolling Nob Hill to stop in for a quick lunch.
The problem? It’s hard to improve upon an institution, which Hwang’s bibimbap bowls already are. Kim Jong Grillin’ serves the scorched rice and japchae bowl with a fried egg over the top and your choice of grilled Korean meats for $10. At the Smokehouse, the basic bowl—which also includes sesame sprouts, daikon and cabbage kimchi, pickled mango, and sesame seeds—starts at $9. It is filling and satisfying on its own, especially with a hearty swirl of the house-made gochujang sauce mixed in.
