Basketball Jonze

I’D HAPPILY WATCH any Trail Blazers game at the new Northeast
Portland bar and restaurant NEPO 42. Of course, that speaks more to
atmosphere and clientele than the food, but there is a food-related
reason as well: twenty-five cent smoked wings.

To be honest, I’ve never been to NEPO 42 when there wasn’t a game
playing on the flat-screen TV behind the bar, every patron leaning
toward its glow like flowers toward the sun. Excited, cheering flowers.
So I can’t speak to how the barroom lined with booths, or the strange
adjacent ancillary room, feels in more contemplative non-game hours.
What I can tell you is when the Blazers are riding roughshod over the
Spurs, the place is damn loud. Also, there are baskets of chicken
bones—sucked clean—on almost every occupied table.

There’s a reason for the bone proliferation, and not just because
they’re priced to move. The wings are good. First smoked, then fried,
and finally coated with a sweat-inducing spicy sauce, the wings present
a wonderful depth and heat on the palate, tasting almost more like pig
than chicken. It makes sense considering how much affection NEPO 42 has
for both pork and fowl. Aside from vegetarian options—salads,
veggie burger, smoked tofu—chicken, turkey, and pork dominate the
majority of the menu.

An entrée of mac and cheese yields small pieces of pepper
bacon, along with peas, red pepper, and subtly tangy sharp cheddar
sauce. There’s harmony throughout—the red pepper and sharp
cheddar elevating the flavor profile, creating a dynamic
dish—freshness against a creamy backdrop with occasional wisps of
pepper.

A turkey pot “pie,” eschews the crust and tops a gravy-based stew of
smoked turkey, carrots, celery, and onions with a puff pastry. Maybe
not what you were looking for (pie it’s not), but warm, smoky, savory,
and satisfying nonetheless.

Bridging two large chunks of cornbread, the half-rack of ribs are
accompanied by Carolina baked beans and slaw. It’s a plate of
contradictions. The meat, while moist and tender, is
bland—tasting like it received little seasoning before hitting
the pit. The barbecue sauce helps, but it’s too cumin heavy and too
sparse on the meat. The cornbread may be a tad dry, but has an
interesting crust that I found delightfully corny, salty, and slightly
sweet. I ate the crust, leaving the inside untouched. The Carolina
baked beans have a balance of sweetness and savor; a bit of earthiness
added from black beans—legumes posing as candy. The slaw is
adequate but could use some heat.

A better option is the monstrous Killingsworth Chicken Club, most
easily eaten by those with large mouths. It’s stacked with grilled
chicken, bacon, smoked pit ham, caramelized onions, and cheddar. Pure
grubbin’ goodness, though the toasted bread can do a number on the roof
of your mouth.

Skip the limp fries and ho-hum onion rings and order homemade
jalapeño poppers. Not much to look at, but they thrill with
jalapeño heat and a lava-like burst of pimento cream cheese.

All this combined with down-home options like chicken and waffle,
and pulled pork sandwiches, make the NEPO 42 menu interesting enough
for a return during the post season. But add great fans, a comfortable
atmosphere, and a decent selection of booze and beer and you can bet
I’ve found a place to live during the playoffs.