PHÓ VÁN
1919 SE 82nd Ave, 788-5244
82nd Avenue is not a destination for fine dining–used car lots, strip clubs,
and endless chain restaurants evoke the melancholic detachment of watching a
Huey Lewis video at your uncle’s funeral. But amidst the chaos and monotony
exists a restaurant that serves as a haven for the hungry and weary. Long past
its status as a well-kept secret, Phó Ván expanded from a décor-less
phó house to a dazzling extravaganza of simple Vietnamese soups, noodles,
and grilled delicacies. Vegetarians take note: There’s not much on the menu
for you beyond salad rolls and fried spring rolls, and although there is no
lack of fresh vegetative garnish with rice and noodle dishes, the focus is on
meat, foul, and fish.
As its name suggests, Phó Ván serves up a great deal of phó(technically
pronounced like the French word for fire, feu). Phó Bo ($4.95-5.50),
the ubiquitous beef noodle soup, starts with a delicate beef broth made from
oxtails, anise, ginger, and other exotic aromatics. Never greasy, this broth
is as light as air and just as essential. Your choice of meat ranges from thin
slices of round steak and flank to fatty brisket to meatballs and finally ‘going
there’ with shredded tripe and tendon. Unless you have a fondness for ‘variety
meats,’ go with what you know and order the round steak, flank, or brisket.
At least half the pleasure in eating phó is the activity itself. A
plate of bean sprouts, lime wedges, slivered jalapenos and Thai basil are to
be incorporated in your bowl as you see fit. I like to take a few sips of broth
to appreciate its unadulterated flavor before I squeeze the lime, tear up the
basil, and dunk the chiles. A hefty squirt of rooster sauce turns your broth
a shade of tiger lily. I drink the broth halfway before incorporating the bean
sprouts, then start in on the noodles and meat. At this time, I have a mound
of plum sauce on the side, and in this sweet, salty emulsion I dip the meat
for a whole new language of flavors. Without fail, I use too much rooster sauce
and must order a fresh lime juice ($1.75), Vietnamese coffee ($2.25), or the
ultra-decadent avocado smoothie ($2.50) to quell the fire below.