If you had told me a month ago that my next food obsession
would be based on corn, I’d have argued with you. Corn’s not my thing,
I’d have stubbornly said, regaling you with stories of my
corn-overloaded past. Sweet corn was the only fresh veggie to grace my
Midwestern family’s plates in the summer; canned corn stepped in the
rest of the year. My great grandparents ran an industrialized corn
farm. My first job was at a restaurant, and one of my summertime duties
was to shuck dozens of crates of corn. I’ve had enough corn in my life,
thank you very much.
Then I met Dove Vivi’s corn-topped pizza. Not only is the crust
itself made with crunchy cornmeal (as is all of Dove Vivi’s dough), but
this deep dish pie in particular is loaded with kernels of fresh, sweet
corn—and I can’t get enough of it. The first time I visited Dove
Vivi, I’m ashamed to say that I snubbed this combo (which marries corn
with tangy balsamic roasted red onions, two kinds of mozzarella, and
fresh chives). But once I’d tried a few of the other inspired pizzas on
their regular menu—like the one with house-made sausage and
marinated green peppers, or the baked eggplant and blue cheese with
fresh tomatoes—I knew I could trust the talented (and hospitable)
crew at this new inner-Northeast joint to put corn on my plate.
Dove Vivi—the name means “where you live,” which is
exceedingly accurate, given the number of regulars the cozy pizza shop
has already wooed, despite its poor signage and nondescript location
next to a dry cleaner—builds pizzas that are a hybrid of
Chicago’s deep-dish crust style, but with Portland’s penchant for
fresh, seasonal ingredients. The crust is buttery and rich, and the
cheeses and toppings are layered right on the crust, with the chunky
sauce adorning the top.
But this is Portland, so you’ll find seasonal items like broccoli
rabe, fennel, kale, leek, and fig pizzas on the rotating specials
board, alongside the standbys like pepperoni or four cheese—and,
of course, a vegan pie crammed with eggplant, mushrooms, onions, and
peppers. (All whole pies are $20, and everything’s available by the
slice for $3.75. That may seem pricey for a slice of pizza from a
12-inch pie, but these are hearty—two slices make for a solid
meal.) It’s the same quality ingredients you’ll find at Portland’s
other gourmet pizzerias, like Ken’s and Apizza Scholls, but the
new-to-Portland crust—and the more casual, homey décor,
with mason jars standing in as water pitchers—sets Dove Vivi
apart.
Pizza’s not the only thing on the simple menu. Salads are generously
sized, though the vinaigrette dressing on the mixed greens or beet
salad could use more vinegar to balance out the fruity olive oil.
There’s a lone dessert on the menu, but it’s strong enough to stand on
its own (and feed two)—creamy and airy chocolate mouse is layered
with crushed biscotti, and enveloped in a ladyfinger crust.
Also on the menu are roasted chicken and calzones. I haven’t tried
those yet, but if the quality of the pizzas are any indication, they’ll
be knockouts. I’m just not ready to end my newfound love affair with
corn pizza.