Star Crossed

IF THE OBSERVATORY is using the heavens to navigate, it must
be following a wandering star. The new eatery is adrift between the
currents of bar and restaurant, with a menu that is part surf, part
turf, and desperate for a harbor.

Located in the Montavilla neighborhood, the Observatory is certainly
charming. It works best as a neighborhood hangout—or a place for
friends who’ve taken advantage of low home prices beyond 82nd to meet
with those who’ve opted to keep paying rent downtown. A line of church
pews acts as a banquette along one wall and large square tables occupy
most of the floor space alongside comfortable and tasteful chairs. The
Medusa-esque chandelier hanging above the enormous bar acts as a
whimsical constellation that tempers the weight of the heavy
furnishings. The eclectic selection of art and knickknacks suggests a
Victorian-era club for dilettante English explorers who’ve stayed close
to home.

A good portion of the menu is devoted to cocktails—generally
new takes on old classics. The spiced Manhattan is heavy with
allspice-infused bourbon, which I enjoyed, despite my server’s efforts
to convince me otherwise. However, she would have been right concerning
my feelings for the bland lavender gin lemon drop, which fell flat.

The Observatory’s kitchen is currently keen on fish, but produces
mixed results. A house-smoked whitefish spread is quite good, just
fishy enough, and when accompanied by rye crackers, horseradish, and a
giardiniera-like mélange of house-pickled veggies, the spread
makes a fine snack.

Another nice starter is the lightly breaded calamari with lemon
aioli and an all-purpose tomato puree. The calamari rings and
blossoming tentacles are just this side of tender and remain both light
and filling.

Unfortunately, the smoked salmon salad suffers from over-dressed
tender greens, creating the effect of a mound of wet grass. The salmon
studded throughout was flavorful, but would have worked better if not
buried in sodden flora.

As for main dishes, the snapper came to me overcooked and nearly
covered with a large dollop of lemon aioli (the same served with the
calamari) as if trying to hide the fish. More satisfying were the warm
greens and buttery fried potato cake that share the plate.

There is good to be found among the Observatory’s entrées.
The chicken-fried chicken, for instance, is analogous to tasty
schnitzel: tender and juicy after being flattened and dredged in panko
before frying. It works very well with the accompanying mashed
potatoes, crisped savory Brussels sprouts, and tangy gravy.

The special buffalo burger also hit the spot on a recent evening.
The meat was moist and yielding, topped with blue cheese and grilled
onions, and slipped into an airy bun. It was flavorful and easy to eat,
but the fries that accompanied were a letdown.

All in all, it feels as if the Observatory’s kitchen would be well
served by finding a safe port and making more of a stand. It would be
nice to see the surf ‘n’ turf aesthetic specifically embraced and the
cuisine executed with more gusto. Based on several menu items, it’s
clear they have the ability—it’s just a question of finding the
right star to steer by.