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Perhaps it shouldnāt matter that an Oregon winemaker is black. But of course it matters. Itās America in 2016, after all. We live in a land still sliced by racial distinction and discrimination. Oregon, with its 86 percent whiteness, has a robust history of exclusion. I mention this to the man Iām interviewing, Bertony Faustin, owner of Abbey Creek Vineyard and Oregonās first recorded black winemaker.
āOregon has a history of being a utopia to get away from black folks,ā he says. āWe wouldnāt have [to tell] this story if Oregon was diverse and open.ā The state, after all, was founded on racist principlesāblack people were prohibited from settling or owning landāwhile segregation lasted well into the 20th century.
And so, here we are, discussing one offshoot of those color-coded policies. Faustin, somewhat inadvertently, has become the go-to guy in any discussion about the lack of diversity in Oregonās wine industry. Itās not a position he sought, though.
āI didnāt want to be THE black winemaker,ā he says, āIām just hustling to make a little bit of wine.ā
Still, itās a role Faustin has taken to. He gives lectures to the wine establishment in Newberg, heās been to DC to talk on the topic, and heās involved in a program at Concordia University to introduce diverse and disadvantaged kids to the idea of winemaking (which is about farming, rather than getting teenagers into drinking). Heās also made his own film, Red, White and Black, about his experiences and those of his peersāAndre Mack, owner of Mouton Noir wines; Jesus Guillen, winemaker at White Rose Estate and his own label, Guillen Family Wine; Jarod Sleet at Argyle Winery, and Remy Drabkin, the woman behind her Remy Wines label.
Sitting in his production facility and tasting room in North Plains (āThe black part of town is when Iām hereā), the 45-year-old sits in his chair projecting a stolid exuberance. Itās apparent thereās a need for his story. Word about the movieāwhich is self-financed but needs additional funding for postproductionāwent national, then international, and now he gets emails from strangers telling him heās been an inspiration. Still, when customers come into the tasting room, they ask him who the winemaker is.
āWith my name, people are looking for a little Italian guy,ā he says. āThey werenāt being malicious, they were just puzzled: How does this black dude get to be a winemaker with a vineyard?ā
He never planned on being a winemaker. Born to Haitian immigrant parents, he grew up in New York City and moved to Oregon to work as an anesthesia technician at OHSU. The career change was enabled by his in-laws owning land on Germantown Road that included some vine rows. āI didnāt even drink before I started making wine. I saw it as New York hustle for the first three or four yearsāthis is in front of me, what can I do with it?ā
His first vintage was in 2008. In time, his passion for winemaking has increased, but not his disdain for the industry. Our conversation is peppered with examples of how the traditional wine world excludes people (intentionally or not) through its narratives, presumptions, and the image it portrays.
āIn 2015, the Oregon Wine Board was celebrating 50 years of winemaking,ā Faustin says, āand you get the photos of the pioneers and the usual story. I was like, you know what? Thereās nothing about that story that is me. That was part of the bullshit of the industry thatās annoyed me throughout.ā
Faustin barely mentions his winesāthereās some talk of the varietals he farms (heās recently planted Gamay and AlbariƱo, a white grape from Iberia) and the 2016 harvest. Usually, you canāt stop a winemaker from engulfing you with talk of clone types, soils, fermentation methods, barrel aging, and winemaking philosophy.
āPeople want a good bottle of wine,ā Faustin explains, ābut all the other things that the wine industry puts its onus on means nothing.ā
He certainly has no interest in starting a wine dynasty.
āKidsāfuck āem, let them get their own thing!ā he says, laughing. Then, adding, āAgain, itās turning back to that same storyāitās the fourth generation, blah blah. No one says that about the guy whoās a plumber, no one cares if he leaves a dynasty for his kids.ā
For all the pugnacious talk, all he wants is for people to have an enjoyable experience.
āAnyone who comes into my tasting room, itās my responsibility how you leave, whether a beginner or an expert wine taster.ā
Heās delighted when an older (white) lady started dancing at one of his rap nights. His new tasting room, The Spot, at NW 23rd and Hoyt, isnāt exactly an ideal location for him, but...
āIām not trying to make wine [just] for black people,ā he says. āI want to bridge the gap to where we get that traditional wine drinker to see a different side of things. I think thereāll be more change that way.ā