Ben & Esther’s Bagels Credit: Aaron Lee
Ben & Esther’s Bagels
Ben & Esther’s Bagels Aaron Lee

While Portland may have cornered the market for the best barbecue outside of Texas, we’re still a bit behind in the bagel, schmear, matzoh, and pastrami lifestyle.

There have long been stalwarts like Kenny & Zuke’s and Kornblatt’s, but the opening of three new Jewish(ish) delis vastly expands our options, and one has a chocolate chip cookie so good that we are now engaged and have a down payment on a condo together.

Beetroot Market & Deli

Beetroot says upfront that it’s not meant to be a traditional NYC Jewish deli, but rather a women-run PNW Jewish deli. I don’t care what you call it: Their matzoh ball soup ($4.50/$8) is deeply satisfying, made up of plump, soft balls infused with what tastes like generations’ worth of comforting chicken stock.

The menu also has the requisite pastrami, bagels with schmear, and deli salads. My money’s on the turkey Reuben ($12) with housemade sauerkraut on rye. It’s not the world’s biggest sandwich, but with the richness of those ingredients, it’s for the best.

Andrea Damewood is a food writer and restaurant critic. Her interests include noodle soups, fried chicken, and sparkles.