I don’t know how I’ve never given Shipwreck love in the pages of this fine publication until now, and for that I am only kind of sorry. I have all the feels for this roving pop-up bar from bartender Eric Nelson, who has a knack for showing up with the coolest food-and-drink kids on the […]
Andrea Damewood
Andrea Damewood is a food writer and restaurant critic. Her interests include noodle soups, fried chicken, and sparkles.
Posted inFood and Drink
Fimbul is Haute Cuisine for Vikings, Right Down to the Dung-Smoked Salmon
When I mentioned to a food-insider friend that I went to Fimbul for dinner, the first question she asked was: “Was there poop on the menu?” “Yes. Yes there was,” I replied. “And it was great.” It came in the form of a small, pink slice of salmon that had been smoked over dry dung […]
Posted inEat and Drink
Super Deluxe Is Portland’s Answer to In-N-Out
If you doubt that I’ve always been passionate about food, please ask my mother to tell you about the times (yes, more than once) that I threw a temper tantrum over being denied Chicken McNuggets. To this day, I love me some nugs, and have molded my fit-pitching ability into the more reasoned written format […]
Posted inEat and Drink
Dreaming of Dumplings
Great New Choices for Your Dumpling Fix
There’s a reason the word “dumpling” is a term of endearment—we love them. A version of them exists in nearly every culture—from gyoza to pierogi to ravioli. The act of wrapping dough around a filling and applying heat turns ingredients into a universal thing humans would very much like to eat… except when those dumplings […]
Posted inEat and Drink
Canard Brings Out the Kid In You
The hardest part of being a kid, at least for me, was not being able to do what I wanted when I wanted to. Now, as an adult, if I do just that, it’s viewed as childish. You just can’t win. Unless you’re at Canard, where doing what you want is the damn point, and […]
Posted inEat and Drink
The Definitive Guide to Portland’s Top Five Fresh Rolls
I have feelings about salad rolls. So often they’re bland, and the thin rice paper roll shreds as you try to eat the unseasoned shrimp, tofu, or pork packed within. Or the ratio of vermicelli noodles is too high, or it’s served inexplicably with sweet and sour sauce. A good salad roll, however, is a […]
Posted inEat and Drink
The Disappearing Food Cart
Cheap Lunches are a Portland Food Cart Staple, But Is Rampant Development Signaling the Death of the Pod?
Deepak Saxena says that when he opened his DesiPDX cart at Northeast 15th and Alberta in 2015, he knew the corner—with a Bamboo Sushi and a Barista not far away—was ripe for redevelopment. So it didn’t come as a surprise when he was told the land was for sale—although learning he had just six weeks […]
Posted inFood and Drink
Restaurant Review: Smallwares Is Back with Big Flavors
Meg Nanna Smallwares is back, although it kind of never left. When it debuted in 2012, Chef Johanna Ware’s restaurant, which introduced Asian flavors never before seen in Portland, earned top critical marks across the board. The spot in Northeast Fremont’s Beaumont-Wilshire neighborhood made an indelible mark on the city’s dining scene, with iconic dishes […]
Posted inFood and Drink
Smallwares Is Back with Big Flavors
Smallwares is back, although it kind of never left. When it debuted in 2012, Chef Johanna Ware’s restaurant, which introduced Asian flavors never before seen in Portland, earned top critical marks across the board. The spot in Northeast Fremont’s Beaumont-Wilshire neighborhood made an indelible mark on the city’s dining scene, with iconic dishes like deep […]
Posted inFood and Drink
Food Review: Wild About Game Festival
Castagna’s Justin Woodward’s rabbit dish Andrea Damewood I’m pretty sure that one cup of detox tea I had last night isn’t going to make up for the damage I did at Sunday’s Wild About Game. Worth it. Held at the Resort at the Mountain every fall and hosted by Portland meat purveyor Nicky USA, this […]
Posted inFood and Drink
Soviet Bloc: The New Kachka and Kachinka Expand Portland’s Russian Empire
Kachka exploded onto the national food scene in 2014, totally revolutionizing what Portlanders thought Russian food could be. The restaurant’s Herring Under a Fur Coat—vibrant beets atop pickled herring, peas, potatoes, onions, carrots, egg, and mayo—inarguably ranks among the the city’s most iconic plates. Four years and untold barrels of horseradish vodka later, owners Bonnie […]
Posted inFood and Drink
TBA: Tender Table and TBA Food Examine the Intersection of Food, Art and Community
Photo by Vy Hong Pham, Courtesy of PICA If you think about it, food is the ultimate time-based art (unless you count those McDonald’s Big Macs that won’t even grow mold). This year, the juggernaut that is the TBA Festival seeks to examine the intersection of food, art, and community with their TBA Food programing, […]