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Sweet, Nice, Reliable

It’s Your Neighborhood Joint

Little Italy’s Cucina 2601 SE Clinton 239-4306 Little Italy’s CucinaÉ sounds cute, doesn’t it? Quaint, even. Low-maintenance and neighborhoody. Mellow, fun. And it is all these things. Plus it serves Italian food, and what could be more desirable in winter? Having scanned the Portland Yellow Pages in a carb-thirsty freakout, I realized there really aren’t […]

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Hit and Miss

Nubian Twist Impresses, Disappoints, and Impresses

Nubian Twist 2719 NE 7th 449-8306 There are two poles of good soul-food eating in Portland: The South Pole–the drink-centric Delta Café–and the North Pole–the low on ambiance/high on taste Yam Yam’s. I prefer the former if I’m out with a fancy lad (known in some circles as a “dandy”), the latter if I just […]

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Drink! Drank! Drunk!

The Mercury’s Winter Survival Guide: Drinking Section

Know Thy Enemy WINTER ALCOHOLISM: What are you up against? This winter, as with every Portland winter, the booze is out to get you. Think of it as your sworded archnemesis: it might be valiant and adventurous to engage in a battle, but dally too long, and a brief flirt with folly could end in […]

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Hangover Havens

Hair of the Dog for Body and Mind

Suddenly, bars all over Portland are offering breakfast and brunch as part of their weekend (and in many cases, weekday) lineups. Since Portland is the breakfast/ brunch capital of the world, these drinking establishments are up against some stiff competition. Indeed, in most cases, there’s no reason to forgo your trip to fine bruncheries like, […]

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Attack of the Wallet-Savers

Great Restaurant Fails to Break Your Bank

Lovely Hula Hands 938 N. Cook (at Mississippi) 445-9910 Am I just getting older and richer, or is the gap between typically broke young Portlanders and fine eating establishments starting to close? Recent openings like the extremely popular Farm Cafe, the Vietnamese Green Papaya, and Surabuya–an innovative Hawthorne-dwelling Indonesian restaurant–reflect a growing trend of new […]

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Flavor Crazy

Surabaya Seduces

Surabaya 4741 SE Hawthorne 236-2845 When you read certain menus, “your” dish unquestionably pops out. When you scan others, you’re forced to settle for something less than perfect. When reading Surabaya’s menu, I felt like the whole thing was catered to me. Each dish is loaded with strong flavors, but the food doesn’t come off […]

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Mini-Menus

Chaba Thai 5810 NE Sandy, 282-3970 Hours: Mon-Thu 11:30 am-3 pm, 5pm-9 pm, Fri 11:30 am-3 pm, 5 pm-10 pm, Sat 12-10 pm, Sun 5-9 pm Weekday lunch specials $6-$9 Green Curry: Eggplant, bamboo shoots, bell pepper and basil leaves with Thai green curry paste $6.50 w/ chicken, pork or beef $7.50 w/ shrimp or […]

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From Takeout to Table

The Mercury’s Menu and Takeout Guide by Aaron Beam, Manu Berelli, Brian Brait, Lance Chess, Joe Faustin Kelly, Wm. Steven Humphrey, Edited by Katie Shimer

Takeout dining is the best! How else can you eat gourmet meals without changing out of your sweatpants? (Gourmet chefs–please refrain from answering that question.) There is some planning involved, of course. I can think of no bigger faux pas than calling a dine-in restaurant and asking them to read their takeout menu to you […]

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THIEN HONG

Maybe you don’t remember the first takeout you had upon arriving in Portland; but I do. New towns are tough–what with the moving, the disorientation, wondering if you’ve made the most grievous error of your lifeÉ finding a place to have a great meal is the last of your concerns. However, I was lucky enough […]

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MUDAI

My friend Asprin is not only a hiphop producer who makes phat beats with lyrics about how my friends and I should quit drinking ourselves to death, he’s also a connoisseur of Ethiopian food. He considers Mudai to be the best in town, and I couldn’t agree more. If you’ve never had Ethiopian, it’s an […]

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KING BURRITO

This place is kind of a hole in the wall, has no public restroom, and is terribly cold except in summer when it’s unbearably hot. The food, however, is a dream. The vegetarian chimichanga, one of many such vegetarian choices, is a $4.25 savior of souls. It comes in one of those checkered paper boats, […]

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