[From E+D, the Mercury‘s new Spring Eat & Drink Guide!]
FEW STREETS are as emblematic of Portland’s rapid growth in population and stature as SE Division. While a few old-school establishments are still holding strong (shoutout to the Oregon Theater!), the rest have been swept aside for upscale bars and restaurants. If you’re lamenting this turn of events and longing for the days of yore, all you need to do is hop on the #4 bus and head past 82nd to the outer reaches of the city. There you’ll find a flock of establishments that ignore modern trappings and menus, sticking to what has worked for them for—in some cases—five decades. Here are some of our favorites:
Tik Tok Restaurant
11215 SE Division & 3330 SE 82nd
For the night owls among us, part of the appeal of Portland’s outskirts is the all-night restaurant options. True, the majority of them belong to the Shari’s chain, but venture a little deeper and you might find yourself having a 3:30 am banquet at one of the two Tik Tok Restaurants.
There’s something almost clandestine about these spots: The dimly lit interior and eerie quiet that accompanies a very late meal leaves you with a strange thrill, as if you were waiting for your side-piece or to spill government secrets to an investigative journalist. If neither of those scenarios apply, at least you’ll have some healthy portions of hearty American fare (don’t shy away from the chicken Alfredo or the Hawaiian chicken breast that’s topped with Swiss cheese, pineapple, and ham) to help soak up the alcohol in your guts—or the full bar to add more booze to your system.