Credit: NATALIE BEHRING
canfont-nataliebehring-27.jpg
NATALIE BEHRING

I’ve never taken a cruise, but I imagine that it must be like a meal at Can Font, the new Catalan-influenced vessel moored at the northern edge of the Pearl District: relaxing and glossy, but ultimately unchallenging and not the best way to get to know the lay of the land.

It’s an ephemeral experience that leaves an eater mostly with pleasant feelings, but not much in the way of actual memory. Case in point: I texted a friend who I took to dinner there in mid-October and asked what her lasting impression was. Her reply: “Very positive,” but “I honestly can’t remember any specific dishes.”

We both agreed the sangria ($10) is lovely and memorable. Get at least two of this red wine classic, mixed with brandy for a spice-infused drink that’s a true winter warmer, despite being served cold and infused with tropical fruit. Just be sure to skip the too-sweet white sangria ($12), made with Cava and Chambord.

The cozy sangria is a great way to ease into the large, open space at the base of new high-end condos. It’s cavernous, and after the open kitchen gets humming and tables fill with a mixture of older diners in sweaters and younger Pearl-ites, it can get loud.

Andrea Damewood is a food writer and restaurant critic. Her interests include noodle soups, fried chicken, and sparkles.