A month or so ago, after watching a slew of deeply troubling documentaries, I decided to convert from pescatarian to vegan for health reasons (and just about every other reason there is to do it). Despite Beyoncé’s influence, it doesn’t escape me that veganism—like many of my interests—is often seen as “a white thing.” As a new Black vegan, it can feel isolating. So when one of my Facebook friends shared an event offering evidence to the contrary—a “Vegan Nigerian Cuisine” pop-up—I promptly purchased a ticket.
“Freelance chef” Salimatu Amabebe is owner of the catering company/recipe blog Bliss House, and has been vegan since she was 16. While there are several Ethiopian eateries offering vegan and vegetarian options, Amabebe appears to be the only fully vegan Black business owner in Portland’s food scene. After battling health issues brought on by an eating disorder, Amabebe says going vegan freed her to discover her love of food.
“Over many years, I also figured out how food can be so healing,” she says. “And it really also changed my relationship with food. As I started cooking, I was finally able to say ‘I love food,’ and that’s something I never would have said when I was younger. I love making and eating good food, and that has changed my relationship with my body, too. It’s about enjoying and appreciating—not eating out of shame or guilt.”
Born in Maine, Amabebe first learned to cook from her Nigerian father, who would adapt traditionally meat-heavy recipes for her. She remembers when her father bought a bunch of Tupperware, cooked a giant batch of stew, taped up all the containers, and sent her off to college with a bag full of food; the stews helped her through her homesickness. This is the kind of memory-based soul food she loves to share.
“At the risk of sounding new age-y, soul food is just food that’s made with a lot of love,” she says. “I have a love of fresh ingredients, and food that makes me feel really good.”
