We’ve all seen the Portland male fashion whore. His hairdo, however askew and unconventional, is calculated. He sometimes wears jeans from the women’s department, and he may not shop a lot, but he has a favorite store and a favorite label, even if it is “The Bins” and “Converse.” The type has been around for a while, but as Portland grows less grungy and the females continue to delight in offerings from exponentially multiplying local designers, the Portland male fashion whore has been comparatively frustrated. He finds that the community of designers and boutiques have failed to match his enthusiasm, with very few exceptions. For high-quality local menswear, the discerning fellow has had only Adam Arnold designs to turn to, and fine though they be, one is a lonely number. Beyond Arnold and the judicious (if non-local) selections at stores like Blake or Lit, the landscape of men’s fashion in Portland is discouragingly dominated by screen-printing and embroidered ties. Not that these hallmarks are without their time and place, but the fashion-hungry Portland male remains insatiated.
Gentlemen, meet John Blasioli. The latest designer of men’s apparel to come to the fore in Portland, Blasioli’s line, a broken spoke, has been kicking around the racks of Denwave for about a year, and was recently picked up by Seaplane, although its tendency to fly off the shelves has kept its presence fleeting. Largely self-taught and almost accidentally fallen into his craft, Blasioli went from an idle reconstruction hobby in college to a more earnest effort spurned by the loneliness and boredom he felt when his girlfriend moved away. A breakthrough came when he was approached by the Decemberists, who tapped him to create the clothing for their stage and photo appearances during their spring 2005 tour, as well as to design a line of T-shirts for their fans. At this point, Blasioli is committed to apparel design, and is poised to export his work outside the local level.
But first, a proper introduction is in order. This Tuesday, Blasioli will have his first fashion show (“Volume 1: A Formal Introduction,” April 25, 7 pm, Seaplane, 827 NW 23rd, free), an opportunity for fashion-forward Portland men to get acquainted with a broken spoke’s range, which has progressed from simpler designs to more impressive structures and signature. While wearable and casual, a broken spoke is designed for a conscious dresser, part of a larger, general trend that sees everyday menswear as more formal and fitted. Blasioli cites as an example of his inspiration a trip he took to Ireland. Driving, he passed a crew of workmen fixing potholes, and was struck by how smartly they were dressed. “Even their city street workers were better dressed than half our country,” he muses.
In addition to encouraging men to snap it up in the wardrobe department, a commitment to conscious consumerism drives the principles behind a broken spoke’s creation, augmented by Blasioli’s degree in environmental studies. “Customers have the power to change anything we want,” he says, “and keeping money in the local economy only enhances the economy.” Hoping to be part of the growing movement that encourages shoppers to have intention as to where and what they shop for, Blasioli’s designs are inclusive, “open to personal interpretation, so hopefully anyone could wear them.” The overall tendency is toward fitted pants and classic shapes, but also branching out from standards with interesting fabrics and details.
And while the void in Portland menswear has long been waiting to be filled (and there’s still plenty room for more), eventually the boys are going to have to share a broken spoke too. While he’s still in the midst of fine-tuning, Blasioli plans to launch a line for women later this year, focusing mainly on jeans, as well as some jackets.
It’s understandable that there are loyalists who might retain some skepticism of any non-Adam Arnold Portland-produced menswear. It may come as reassurance to them that Blasioli’s education included a brief instruction under Arnold. And while both are proponents of everyday good tailoring, Blasioli says the most important things he learned from Arnold were in regards to efficiency in production more than style—viva la variety.