Unlike the fashion world at large, Adam Arnold shows
his collections at the crest of the season. His spring line debuts this
week, immediately after which the first orders will be taken, and the
looks will begin appearing on the town’s better sidewalks within the
month.
Of course, these days Arnold prefers to keep his shows intimate, and
by invitation only. If you aren’t a client or friend, you may not have
received your invitation to his arena-style presentation, where he will
personally introduce each piece with an explanation of his inspiration,
creative process, and possible variations that clients can request (and
in the ultimate nod to practical candor, prices are listed right on the
program). Those not attending the show should not hesitate to call
ahead to the studio and drop by to see the pieces up close; visits to
Arnold’s studio can be deliriously illuminating.
Always armed with a free flow of ideas to reference in his
collections, Arnold namedrops a new-wave sensibility, the film
Liquid Sky, dark and synthy pop, and German punk music. As is
often the case with Arnold, there’s a touch of rebellion to his output,
and in some respects the new work is a reaction to what he started to
perceive as too-ubiquitous qualities in local apparel design: delicate
ruffles, muddy pastels, “cozy-comfy-chic,” Victorian influences. (“It’s
done!” he declares.) Instead, look for prints and patterns,
stripes and grids and polka dots in “brain-frying” colors in this more
casual time of year (though no Adam Arnold collection is complete
without exquisite suits, this time in lightweight, sheer
materials).
More so than perhaps in the past, Arnold considers this season’s
work to be more of a departure for him; he took a hiatus in January,
exploring the foreign practice of relaxation, during which he felt
himself shifting, loosening up and becoming more playful. His first
foray post-hiatus was a conceptual piece for a show at the
Contemporary Craft Museum, followed by a guest appearance at
The English Dept.‘s bridal show—bridal wear being
something he historically doesn’t do; both were exercises in departing
his comfort zone while becoming more attuned to himself. He also found
a trove of old clothes he’d made for himself as a junior high school
new-waver in the mid-’80s: madras plaid, corduroy, pleats, pegged
pants, paisley shirts that buttoned up the back. Part homage to the
picked-on, ostracized 12-year-old he was at the time, the show is also
dedicated to the recently deceased grandfather Arnold remembers as a
stubborn, cantankerous figure who always backed him up and encouraged
him to never compromise his vision. (Adam Arnold Spring Show, Design
Within Reach, 1200 NW Everett, Fri April 4, 7 pm, by invitation; Adam
Arnold Studio, 727 SE Morrison, by appointment, 234-1376)
This weekend also brings the opening of a boutique that’s poised to
be something truly special: Frances May joins a bustling
downtown scene that holds, within paces of each other, indie shopping
destinations Odessa, The English Dept., and soon-to-be-opened
Covet. Frances May is being opened by Pamela Baker-Miller with her grandmother Connie Codding (the store’s name comes from
Baker-Miller’s great-grandmother). It will hold pieces from
entrepreneurial lines mostly out of New York, where Baker-Miller
attended Pratt and worked as a buyer, merchandiser, and gallery
assistant before moving to Portland two years ago. Since her arrival,
she’s had stints with Anthropologie, The English Dept.,
PICA‘s Kristan Kennedy, and American Apparel. Her
store will offer edgy designs from Rachel Comey, Christian
Joy, Lorick, Samantha Pleet, Clu, Mooka
Kinney, Laura Seymour, Ditto, Nomia,
Plastic Island, and Church + State. Doors open with a
don’t-miss champagne reception. (Frances May opening, 1013 SW
Washington, Sat April 5, 6-8 pm, free)
Rounding out the weekend is LA’s Christina Scarbo, no
stranger to fans of Project Runway, on which she recently
appeared. She is having a trunk show of her line, Kit Pistol, at
that bastion of indie design, Seaplane. In keeping with Scarbo’s
signature hair accessory, be there with bows on. (Seaplane, 827 NW
23rd, Sun April 6, 4-8 pm)