Body types in fashion are the subjects of some of the most popular
controversies in the field. While most of the attention is invariably
directed at the “skinny model debate,” the other side of the coin also
arouses argument. Just as skinny models’ natural physiques are debated
against their diets and habits, plus-sized models are scrutinized as
possible dangerous proponents of a gluttonous and slothful lifestyle,
and alternatively championed as underdogs in a superficially obsessed
society who are nonetheless healthy and as deserving of the empowering
forces of tailoring as the next person.
We’re a long way off from hearing the last of it in either case;
both extremes are exalted and derided to an unreasonable extent. In the
meantime, the fact remains that regardless of the hows and whys, there
is a diverse population of bodies in our culture that need to be
clothed, and for a woman on the upper end of that scale, the options
become decidedly narrow.
Kenneth Doswell is the owner of Betty Jean Couture, a
local made-to-measure operation for women of all sizes, but which
specializes in the range of 14W-3X. The road to that end was somewhat
circuitous: As a kid, Doswell and his brother helped out their father,
who owned a cleaning service whose clients in Pasadena, CA, were mainly
women’s clothing stores. This early exposure planted the seed for
Doswell, along with his brother and father, to launch into the apparel
business. After relocating to Portland from Los Angeles, where they had
concentrated on the wholesale market, they shifted their focus to the
local market and made-to-measure clients.
Doswell describes the typical Betty Jean client as 35 years old or
more, at an average size of 16. She can choose from off-the-rack
clothing (average price point $65), or custom work (Doswell quotes
$295-300 for a jacket and pants). She can also come to them with
nothing more than an idea, and Doswell and his team will work with her,
taking into consideration not only her preferences but also her
lifestyle, to create something suitable and unique.
When asked why his company chooses to focus on plus sizes, Doswell
says, “I believe fashion will experience a renaissance, where it better
reflects women of all sizes and races. Nothing speaks louder than a
size-18 woman on the catwalk dressed in a bright orange silk chiffon
evening gown as the crowd goes wild.” (Betty Jean launches their new
urban and spring lines Sat May 24, 5:30 pm, 3537 NE Williams, call
284-6711 for reservations, $10)