"Bent Brick is a nice, laid-back kind of place to stop off and grab a drink and bite to eat if money’s clearly no object. (I know exactly one person for whom that’s the case, but he doesn’t drink.) I suppose that compared to Dolich’s other restaurant, the formidable Park Kitchen, this is considerably downscale, but on a recent visit, during happy hour and all by my lonesome, I spent $50 and left hungry and decidedly un-drunk. The food, across the board, was excellent; same goes for the cocktails. The staff was friendly, and the servers had obviously taken the time to learn the ins and outs of even the most complex dishes (which is good, as the deliberately enigmatic menu reads like a Raymond Carver rip-off, nary an adjective to be found: Beef, Smoke, Onions, Potato…$17). There’s tremendous attention paid to ingredients—everything is sourced locally. The space feels appropriate for what Dolich’s going for—a few booths, a dozen or so tables, and a long, round bar I felt good bellying up to. Sadly, and strangely, the final product feels like less than the sum of its parts. As pleasant as my experiences have been, I can’t think of many occasions I’d return. If I’m at all hungry, it’s out of my price range for after-work drinks, and if I’m going to drop $100+ on a dinner for two (I can’t imagine how you get out of Bent Brick for under that), I’d opt for a fuller restaurant experience (and stomach)." - TONY PEREZ


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